I’ve found that it’s often really difficult to physically wind the Lines in and out of the Belaying Pins.
I’ve been pre-making the bundles on this tool, then attaching the coiled bundle on to the Belaying Pins. After which I can loop the line on the inside and make it fast with a drop of Superglue. It gives the illusion of having been wound around the Belaying Pin.
I bought this Contact Adhesive yesterday because I’m almost out of Dap Weldwood. I just ordered some more, but in the meantime, I thought that I would give this Gorilla one a try.
For the 2nd Layer Plank work, definitely avoid this glue. It probably is great for some applications, but not for that. I ended up getting Glue Goo all over the edges of the planks and there was no easy way to avoid it from what I can see.
I bet this glue will come in handy at some other point though so I’m not going to completely dismiss it. Although, it would probably come in second after Aleene’s Rapid Dry, which I like for these sort of rubbery glues.
I originally found out about this glue while watching an Instructional Video by Modelers Central. It was a video on doing the second layer or Veneer Planking.
He applied it to both sides of the surfaces to be glued, then he said to wait until it’s “touch dry”… which he demonstrated by simply touching the surface and it wasn’t unduly sticky.
Anyway, I have yet to use it for that purpose.
But, I have found that it’s a godsend for doing my current work.
I am building these Gun Carraiges, which consists of 9 small parts. I decided to try this glue out on them by coating both sides of the small parts and waiting for the 15 minutes. (Which is a decisively unfortunate aspect of using this glue)
I also found them to be handy while making my Gun Ports as well… which consisted of 4 small parts.
What I like about it is the fact that it’s way less messy and less “unruly” than using Superglue and also Aleene’s The Ultimate even. Aleene’s is similar to being a Contact Cement, however it’s really messy I’ve found. Although it does have a strong bond once dry. As well as this Cement as well.
So for the small work, this cement works really good and I recommend it.
By the way, if you use a Brush or something to apply this Contact Cement, a really good way to clean the Brush afterwards is to use Turpentine.
I love this Cement for a lot of different applications. When you require the pieces to grab and then hold together.
I often “harden” the joined pieces with Super glue, which I simply dribble into the crack and wipe away the excess…
They work really nicely with the Rounded side. It makes it ideal for getting into the curvatures of the Bow and Stern areas.
They come with these little Wing Nuts and a Dowel for holding the Sandpaper in.
My only issue is that they are too big for standard Sanding Paper that come in Sheets.
So, to remedy that problem, I bought these Sanding Belts that are made for Belt Sanders and I simply cut them up do they’ll fit.
Otherwise, you’re stuck buying them from MicroMark.
I jus at found out something interesting. When you cut a 3″ x 21″ Bent Sander Paper at the same widths as the Sanding Blocks, there’s one each that’s perfect for each Block. One big and one small. I’m sure they made it like that intentionally.