I just made this Spacer that you put between your Deadeyes so that they come out at the same distance on the Shrouds above the Deadeye on the Channels.
Anyway, it works out to being 20mm apart… So I gave it 21mm to give it some wiggle room and stretching space…
It’s made out of a Popsicle Stick.
The idea is to slip the pins on the bottom into the Deadeye and slide the one from the Shrouds on to the top one. Then take down the slack on the Shrouds and serve the end.
Just got my new Round Nose Plier in the mail that I bought from Amazon.
This one goes down to 1mm.
I had a real POS one that I bought from Michael’s for Jewelry making.
This one is way better!!!
These are essentially for making the circular Wire Twists like on Deadeyes, etc.
I’ve had this Wen Sander for something like nearly a year now. I haven’t reviewed it yet.
I connected this old Bissell Vacuum Cleaner to it and it does a great job of sucking up all the Sawdust.
Also, I have this Shop Light above it so I can see what I’m doing.
Anyway, this Wen is a nice little Sander. In fact, I didn’t realize just how much I use it until I changed the Sanding Belt on it. I use the Belt way more than I use the Disk.
I paid around $90 bucks for it on Amazon. I’ve had a lot of use out of it so I would recommend this to anybody.
I bought this Contact Adhesive yesterday because I’m almost out of Dap Weldwood. I just ordered some more, but in the meantime, I thought that I would give this Gorilla one a try.
For the 2nd Layer Plank work, definitely avoid this glue. It probably is great for some applications, but not for that. I ended up getting Glue Goo all over the edges of the planks and there was no easy way to avoid it from what I can see.
I bet this glue will come in handy at some other point though so I’m not going to completely dismiss it. Although, it would probably come in second after Aleene’s Rapid Dry, which I like for these sort of rubbery glues.
I originally found out about this glue while watching an Instructional Video by Modelers Central. It was a video on doing the second layer or Veneer Planking.
He applied it to both sides of the surfaces to be glued, then he said to wait until it’s “touch dry”… which he demonstrated by simply touching the surface and it wasn’t unduly sticky.
Anyway, I have yet to use it for that purpose.
But, I have found that it’s a godsend for doing my current work.
I am building these Gun Carraiges, which consists of 9 small parts. I decided to try this glue out on them by coating both sides of the small parts and waiting for the 15 minutes. (Which is a decisively unfortunate aspect of using this glue)
I also found them to be handy while making my Gun Ports as well… which consisted of 4 small parts.
What I like about it is the fact that it’s way less messy and less “unruly” than using Superglue and also Aleene’s The Ultimate even. Aleene’s is similar to being a Contact Cement, however it’s really messy I’ve found. Although it does have a strong bond once dry. As well as this Cement as well.
So for the small work, this cement works really good and I recommend it.
By the way, if you use a Brush or something to apply this Contact Cement, a really good way to clean the Brush afterwards is to use Turpentine.
This is a Plank Bender. It has a sharp edge for “breaking” the fiber of the Plank to be able to bend it around the Hull without any pressure.
What you do is to squeeze down on the Plank just enough to break the fiber and to give it a little twist to the way you want yo bend the Plank.
I decided to make my own Plank bending Jig.
I bought a piece of PVC Tube that is 3″ in Diameter.
I secured it to a board using some screws.
This is absolutely necessary for measuring the curvature of the Bulkheads.
I bought this Plank Bender Jig from Micromark. It works pretty good.
I made a simple Jig put of some Pins. I suppose one of these days I’ll actually got to the trouble of making a Plank Bending Jig tool.
