Category Archives: Tools

Line Bundle Coiling Tool

Line Bundle Coiling Tool

I’ve found that it’s often really difficult to physically wind the Lines in and out of the Belaying Pins.

I’ve been pre-making the bundles on this tool, then attaching the coiled bundle on to the Belaying Pins. After which I can loop the line on the inside and make it fast with a drop of Superglue. It gives the illusion of having been wound around the Belaying Pin.

Take a bit of Line
Wind a few turns
Pass the line under then pass through to get a knot

DeadEye Spacing Tool

I just made this Spacer that you put between your Deadeyes so that they come out at the same distance on the Shrouds above the Deadeye on the Channels.

Anyway, it works out to being 20mm apart… So I gave it 21mm to give it some wiggle room and stretching space…

It’s made out of a Popsicle Stick.

Bottom View
Top View

The idea is to slip the pins on the bottom into the Deadeye and slide the one from the Shrouds on to the top one. Then take down the slack on the Shrouds and serve the end.

Round Nose Plier

Just got my new Round Nose Plier in the mail that I bought from Amazon.

Nice German Engineering

This one goes down to 1mm.

It makes a perfect Eye Bolt

I had a real POS one that I bought from Michael’s for Jewelry making.

This one is way better!!!

Cheap one I bought from Michael’s

These are essentially for making the circular Wire Twists like on Deadeyes, etc.

Micro Shapers

When I got my Belem kit from Artesania Latina, there was a video in the DVD that came with it showing these Micro Shapers. So I decided to order some from Micro Mark to give them a try.

I didn’t really have a need to use them until last night. I shaped the bottom part of my Stern Quarter Gallery of the HMS Surprise, instead of using triangular buttresses as was in the Instructions.

I used the Micro Shaper to make the bottom part under the windows in the Stern Quarter Gallery

Here is the Video from the DVD –

Here is what they look like…

I suppose they work pretty good… Although I’m not sure for how long since the metal is rather thin. We’ll have to wait and see.

It did a good job above on the bottom of the Stern Quarter Gallery so I suppose I’m happy with it.

Wen Belt / Disk Sander Combination

I’ve had this Wen Sander for something like nearly a year now. I haven’t reviewed it yet.

Wen Sander
Old Vacuum Cleaner connected up to the output

I connected this old Bissell Vacuum Cleaner to it and it does a great job of sucking up all the Sawdust.

Also, I have this Shop Light above it so I can see what I’m doing.

Anyway, this Wen is a nice little Sander. In fact, I didn’t realize just how much I use it until I changed the Sanding Belt on it. I use the Belt way more than I use the Disk.

I paid around $90 bucks for it on Amazon. I’ve had a lot of use out of it so I would recommend this to anybody.

Gorilla Clear Grip Contact Adhesive

I bought this Contact Adhesive yesterday because I’m almost out of Dap Weldwood. I just ordered some more, but in the meantime, I thought that I would give this Gorilla one a try.

For the 2nd Layer Plank work, definitely avoid this glue. It probably is great for some applications, but not for that. I ended up getting Glue Goo all over the edges of the planks and there was no easy way to avoid it from what I can see.

I bet this glue will come in handy at some other point though so I’m not going to completely dismiss it. Although, it would probably come in second after Aleene’s Rapid Dry, which I like for these sort of rubbery glues.

Dap Weldwood Contact Cement

I originally found out about this glue while watching an Instructional Video by Modelers Central. It was a video on doing the second layer or Veneer Planking.

He applied it to both sides of the surfaces to be glued, then he said to wait until it’s “touch dry”… which he demonstrated by simply touching the surface and it wasn’t unduly sticky.

Anyway, I have yet to use it for that purpose.

But, I have found that it’s a godsend for doing my current work.

I am building these Gun Carraiges, which consists of 9 small parts. I decided to try this glue out on them by coating both sides of the small parts and waiting for the 15 minutes. (Which is a decisively unfortunate aspect of using this glue)

I also found them to be handy while making my Gun Ports as well… which consisted of 4 small parts.

What I like about it is the fact that it’s way less messy and less “unruly” than using Superglue and also Aleene’s The Ultimate even. Aleene’s is similar to being a Contact Cement, however it’s really messy I’ve found. Although it does have a strong bond once dry. As well as this Cement as well.

So for the small work, this cement works really good and I recommend it.

By the way, if you use a Brush or something to apply this Contact Cement, a really good way to clean the Brush afterwards is to use Turpentine.

MicroMark Sanding Blocks

I bought these Sanding Blocks from MicroMark.

They work really nicely with the Rounded side. It makes it ideal for getting into the curvatures of the Bow and Stern areas.

They come with these little Wing Nuts and a Dowel for holding the Sandpaper in.

My only issue is that they are too big for standard Sanding Paper that come in Sheets.

So, to remedy that problem, I bought these Sanding Belts that are made for Belt Sanders and I simply cut them up do they’ll fit.

Otherwise, you’re stuck buying them from MicroMark.

I jus at found out something interesting. When you cut a 3″ x 21″ Bent Sander Paper at the same widths as the Sanding Blocks, there’s one each that’s perfect for each Block. One big and one small. I’m sure they made it like that intentionally.

Plank Bender

This is a Plank Bender. It has a sharp edge for “breaking” the fiber of the Plank to be able to bend it around the Hull without any pressure.

What you do is to squeeze down on the Plank just enough to break the fiber and to give it a little twist to the way you want yo bend the Plank.