Here I am on the Video applying the Black Sharpie on the Planks Edges to simulate Oakum between the Planks like they used to in the old days.
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Applying “Oakum” between Planks
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Squares
I have these two Squares. Especially handy for cutting exactly right on a Board or Plank.
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Brushes
I bought these at Michaels for $7.99 / Pack.
Artist Loft is the Brand. They aren’t bad quality either for what I need them for.
When applying Contact Cement, my favorite Brushes are these Flat ones…
You have to dispose of these Brushes after every use because they become hard.
I also use a Variety of Higher Quality Artist Brushes for Detail Work.
You need the smaller Brushes to apply Acrylic Paint on the Wood. 🙄🤔
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Second Planking Top Part of Hull
I’m using Contact Cement for this work..
I bought some .5 x 4mm Tanganyika Wood for this.
I used a Sharpie to add the “Oakum” to the sides of the Planks. Mainly because I felt guilty about forgetting to add the Oakum to the Lower Hill below the Wale. .. At least this way the Upper Hull Oakum catches the eye…
I was having some pressure problems so I added some Cheaters. ..
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Second Planking Lower Hull Done
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Save Your Sawdust
I save my Sawdust for later use. It’s great as Putty with some CA Glue.
Sawdust and CA Glue does a great job of filling in Gaps so the lighter wood underneath doesn’t show. 🤔🙄
Some Gaps in the Bow I filled in. .. 🤔🙄
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Strakes from Top Down Part 2
I have tried all kinds of stuff trying to get the Strakes to go down. I ended up pouring a bunch of Sawdust into the Gap and then pouring CA Glue into the Gap. It is nice and hard now.
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Strakes from Top to Down
I was running into tension problems with the Strakes as I was coming up from the Garboard Strakes, so I decided to go from Top to Down.
This Strakes basically runs the same curve as the Wale.
It Tapers from 5mm to 3.3mm ..
I got the Strake in all right into the Tuck, with a little help from my friend SuperGlue!!! ..
The main thing to remember is to press down on it hard for around 30 Seconds. .. 🤔🙄👍
Yeah, you really get into a Flow with this. . Like 5 Plank’s Worth!!! ..
You really get stuck doing a bunch just on one side because of the nature of the Glue going on in big areas. .. 🤔🙄
So far the Tuck is coming out all right.
I prefer building down and meeting somewhere in the Middle… 🤔🙄👍
Taking a Break! .. 🤔🙄😲
Going to listen to my girl Hilary Hahn for a bit! .. That was stressful!!! .. 🤔🙄😲
Yeah… You end up going in 5 Strake Spurts… 🙄🤔🤣
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Bare Clamps on Strake Ends
Here I’m applying the Bare Clamp (no Rubber) onto the ends of the Strake applying pressure to the wood in the shape of the Stem.
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Second Planking Planks A – E
I put my Brush in a Large Pill Bottle so that it would stay moist the entire time I’m using it. Otherwise, if you leave it out, it will dry on you.
I’m using the .5mm x 5mm Sapelle Wood for the outer layer. It’s very similar to Mahogany. I had to special order some from eBay.
I am going to go with convention and call the Garboard Strake as the A Plank.
I glued in 5 Strakes without any Tapers. But now I will have to Taper down to 3.33mm to make them all fit to where the Wale are.
I wasn’t liking how the Planks met the Stem so I ended up putting Fillers in the Gaps.
It’s got a rough look but I like it. You have to figure a Ship like the HMS Endeavor was going to take a lot of punishment, going down to the Antarctic, etc. 🤔🙄😲
Garboard strakes or A strakes. The next two are the first broad or B strake and second broad or C strake. Working upward come the bottom strakes, lowers, bilge strakes, topside strakes, and uppers also named sequentially as the D strake, E strake, etc. The uppermost along the topsides is called the sheer strake. Strakes are joined to the stem by their hood ends.
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