
Fore Top Sail Yard

I’m not going to bother to correct it.
For the Truss Pendant, I’ve made an abbreviated one and only have a loop on one side, which I secured to the Port Cleat on the Foremast.
This is the way that I make Footropes…
I first cut a length of Line. I use this brand of String because I like how the Nylon soaks up the Superglue.
Make a Loop and tie a Clove Hitch with some Black Sewing String and loop around it.
I put this Block on the end of the Line.
Parrels were common to 17th, 18th, and some 19th century ships. The ribs (battens) and trucks (rollers) were strung together on rope trusses. The ends of the truss were secured around the yard, while the ribs and trucks were passed around the body of the mast.
I installed 3 Ribs. The Trucks (Beads) go vertical along the Parrel. The Loop on the end is so I can run the line around the Spar to secure it.
I went ahead and made the Stunsail and lashed it to the Yard.
The Iron for the end, I simply made it with some Wire.
For this Post, I am going to do a Step-By-Step of the Lathe Work involved… (for my own purposes and notes)
First, I cut the Dowel to length at 250mm. I always go 2mm longer each side to compensate for errors.
This Dowel is a 5.89mm width. So 6mm for all intents and purposes. Which is great for the Center portion.
5.89mm… that’s just about perfect. 1mm excess.
I will now put the Dowel in the Lathe.
Now, using a Circular File, I will make an indentation so that it’s cut in until it’s 5mm.
Then I use this course File to bring Spar off center to 5mm. It’s easier to get close to that little Gap made by Rat Tail File.
Next… I use Sandpaper to bring the taper down to the end.
I made the Taper using 120 Grit Sandpaper on a Block. I find it gives me the most control.
Then, I made the notch on the end using a small Flat File.
I figured I’ll go ahead and do these easier Spars on the Foremast before starting on the Mainsail Spars on the Mainmadt and Foremast.
I tied a Clovehitch underneath so that the extender Yard has something to sit on and then tied a lashing and tied it off underneath.
This one is basically the same as the Mizzen, only there’s a Lift that goes through the Gallant Mast and down to the Channel to a Block and tied off at the Pin Rail.
I’m getting to where I can eyeball the widths pretty good and only need Calipers every once in awhile.
This Dowel was 5mm thick and I brought it down to 3mm. But I started 15mm from center. The middle bit is left thick.
I use an Xacto blade and File for the notching.