This Dap Weldwood Contact Cement works pretty good for doing this 2nd Layer Plank work.
With the exception of one thing. I have found that often I would have to use supplemental gluing for the areas that are experiencing Pressure. Primarily on the Bow and Transom.
The Bow, I’ve basically cured it by using my Jig and prebending the Planks before applying the Contact Cement. In other words, I don’t apply the wood and force it to bend around the Bow. The first few times I did this, I had to use SuperGlue and hold it down for a minute or so.
I’m not a big fan of SuperGlue. I’m skeptical whether it will come apart in a future date.
So… I try to use the Titebond II Wood Glue with a Clamp to hold it in place, if u can help it.
Here, I’m clamping some boards that weren’t tight enough on the Transom.
First thing I did was to draw a line 8mm down from the 3mm Walnut Strake that was just above the Sheer Strake.
This Walnut Strake is what the Guns rest against on the Gun Ports.
3mm Walnut Strake just under Gun Ports
Next thing, I File the Angles in for the Strakes that are going to rest against the Stem and Prow.
What I do is Mark it with a PencilContact Cement applied
You wait between 15 Minutes to 2 Hours and you can press the 2 together.
First Set of Wales and Sheer Planks attached
The Dap Weldwood Contact Cement works great for this work!… Although I did have to use a dab of SuperGlue to secure the very front of the First Sheer Plank.
Had to use SuperGlue for very frontFirst set of Wales
I purposely didn’t glue the two 2mm x 2mm Pieces of the Wales together in order give it that Wale look… What’s the point in using two 2×2 if you’re not going for the separation look? Otherwise you would just use a couple of 2×4’s!
I originally found out about this glue while watching an Instructional Video by Modelers Central. It was a video on doing the second layer or Veneer Planking.
He applied it to both sides of the surfaces to be glued, then he said to wait until it’s “touch dry”… which he demonstrated by simply touching the surface and it wasn’t unduly sticky.
Anyway, I have yet to use it for that purpose.
But, I have found that it’s a godsend for doing my current work.
I am building these Gun Carraiges, which consists of 9 small parts. I decided to try this glue out on them by coating both sides of the small parts and waiting for the 15 minutes. (Which is a decisively unfortunate aspect of using this glue)
I also found them to be handy while making my Gun Ports as well… which consisted of 4 small parts.
What I like about it is the fact that it’s way less messy and less “unruly” than using Superglue and also Aleene’s The Ultimate even. Aleene’s is similar to being a Contact Cement, however it’s really messy I’ve found. Although it does have a strong bond once dry. As well as this Cement as well.
So for the small work, this cement works really good and I recommend it.
By the way, if you use a Brush or something to apply this Contact Cement, a really good way to clean the Brush afterwards is to use Turpentine.
I love this Cement for a lot of different applications. When you require the pieces to grab and then hold together.
I often “harden” the joined pieces with Super glue, which I simply dribble into the crack and wipe away the excess…
I found out on my latest build that this stuff is very Caustic.
I thought it would be a good idea to pour a bit into a Plastic Container to dab my Brush into. Well… It ate right through the plastic in record time!
Also I poured some into a Plastic Pill Bottle, which I drilled a hole into to hold the Brush.
Plastic Pill Bottle Brush Holder
Yeah… You’d think it’s a great idea, right???!!! .. WRONG!!! .. The fumes inside the bottle ate right through the Plastic Brush Handle!!!
The Pill Bottle seems to be holding up well for holding the Cement in there though. 🤔🙄
