Tag Archives: Hull Planking

First Layer Planking Finished

I was just going over everything with my 320 Grit Sandpaper and feeling for any irregularities to smooth down.

One thing that I’ve found over the years is that you shouldn’t be overly enthusiastic about sanding. You can easily over sand… Which is what happened on the Port side Forecastle Bollard, in which I sanded to thin paper!!!… Ugh Ugh and more Ugh!!!

Paper thin Bollard

So, what I had to do was to add another piece of Planking over it and Clamp it down in order to repair it…

Gluing Plank to outside of Bollard

I then Puttied and sanded it down to where it looks like this…

Repaired Bollard

Looks pretty good.

Then, I’ve gone through and sanded the entire Hull until smooth… Repairing little bits here and there.

I’ve often found that you need to take your time and really wait and feel around to make sure everything is right…

This was a hard lesson I learned recently with the distancing of the Gun Ports.

Well, the only thing I can do is to keep going. I was even thinking to myself that perhaps this little mistake will make me even bolder and more adventurous.

Perhaps it will?!!!… Who knows? 🤔🤭🤣

Filler Planks

I’m at the point where I’m making these Fillers to cover the last of the holes around the turn of the Bilge.

Starboard side, using Wedges to hold it in while the glue sets

These Cheaters are a real pain. I didn’t make them in the classical sense but it still does the job.

Gluing in tip of Filler

Got this Filler in…

Filler for Port side

I consider these Fillers similar to Cover-Up Make-up. It is an imperfection that will be all but invisible.

Port side Filler

I must say… Making Fillers are probably one of the most relaxing actions. ,🤣😲🤭

Last Filler on Starboard side. Not quite thick enough but I’ll just use some Putty.
Filler for this small hole on the Starboard turn of the Bow.

I was just thinking to myself that I’m pretty satisfied with how it turned out and needing only one or two fillers in the middle. I’ve seen guys that had nothing but filler after filler on their ships because they didn’t do their planking right. I should know because I was one of them!

8th Strake from Keel

This is the last Strake from the Keel that goes all the way forward.

I’m kind of ashamed to say that I had to resort to using the Plank Bender. I suppose it has its uses… Although I just don’t like the idea of breaking the Plank. But… I couldn’t do it any other way.

Used a Plank Bender for this one

Well… This is the situation that I was trying to avoid… Making these odd looking Filler Planks. Oh well. It is only the 1st Layer.

Now I’m stuck making these odd Filler Planks

Nature of the beast I suppose with Planking. A lot of times you just don’t know where you’ll end up.

#8 Starboard side gluing in tip without pressure

It looks like the Starboard side is going to be closed up a bit better than the Port. Although I will still be stuck making these funky odd-shaped Filler Planks. At least the lines look good for the most part.

I ended up going up and over on the Starboard side… I figured the Filler Planks would fit more easily on this side like this.

7th Strake up from Keel

I decided to just go with 2 Strakes going all the way forward instead of 3. In order to get 3 in there, I would have had to make them too thin. So I’m just using 2 and I’m going to just use filler Planks for the rest.

Using the Rubber band method

I feel a bit of a failure because my intention was to have all the Planks reach the Bow and for them to all go to the Stern. I suppose experience is the only cure for this miscalculation… I’ll just know better next time.

But… I must say that all in all, I’m quite happy with what came out, filler and all.

Ending in wedge
Port side view

6th Strake up from Keel

This one was a bit awkward… I ended up holding it with my finger whole watching NCIS for about 30 minutes. I tried Superglue but I ended up making a mess of it so had to wait until the Titebond II set.

#6 Port side held it down with my fingers!

I’m having a bit of a problematic area on the bottom. It’s always someplace that is risky that way.

I had to bring the #6 Plank across where the Gap is and make for 2 Wedges I need to make for these Gaps. Oh well… What are you going to do eh?

Now I’m going to have to make that awkward Stealer hmmm

I keep thinking to myself what I could have done differently to avoid this… But looking at it, I don’t see where I could have done anything else? Hmmm… I’m sure a more experienced model maker could tell me, but right now? I have no idea. 🤔

On the Starboard side, I decided to extend the Plank out and sling a Rubber Band across it instead of holding it with my fingers! LOL!!! 🤭😲🤣

Slinging a Rubber band across it… Why didn’t I think of this before?!?!

I mean… Looking at it?… It’s not horrible.

Holes waiting for Stealers

5th Strake up from Keel

This one was a twisty one… Which is typical for this stage of the game.

Port side Bow portion
Port side Stern portion I left the Wedge for the next 2

I’m doing the entire lower band without pre-bending the Planks or using a Plank Bender.

I was just noticing something going on between Bulkheads numbers 13 – 15. They ended up narrowing this space up to where I’m trying to figure out what to do about it.

Here’s where it narrows

I’ll tell you what… This Plank, the 5th one up on the Starboard side was probably the hardest one yet… It when through some contortions because I refuse to break the wood with a Plank Bender. I’m thinking that I’m going to need it though on the next one..

Hmmm

#5 Starboard side

4th Strake up from Keel

I calculated that I need to taper this Plank down to 3mm to be able for 8 Planks into the space of Bulkhead 1.

Forward edge being glued in

I was just taking measurements and I calculated that I need to make 5 more Planks with all of them going down to a 3mm taper at the Bow.

They’re going in good, but they’re starting to take a lot of twisting to go in… But not unreasonably so.

Being glued in

Garboard Plank

It is true what they say about Garboard planks. That it’s the toughest Plank to be able install. It does go through some rather radical twisting… Around 90° worth from Bow to Stern.

Here I’m gluing the forward part in before I do the rest of the twisting.

Garboard Plank Starboard side

One of the main things about Garboard Planks is that you don’t want to let it come up the Bow. This is so you don’t get Plank crowding as you progress up the Bow with the rest of the Planks on the lower band.

I had to use Superglue in order to hold it down
Next leg glued, before it takes the 90° bend at the Stern Deadwood

The lip of the Plank comes over the Kelson, where the Keel will be glued.

The Keel acts like a Rabbet groove. If it wasn’t like this or had a false Keel, I would have carved some Rabbet grooved along it but it wasn’t necessary with this ship.

Also I’m keeping the overhang on the front of the Garboard Plank… just to have someplace to be able to clamp on to.

This is the reason I left the excess on… So that I have someplace to Clamp

Looking at the forward part of it… I’m kind of cursing myself right now for now thinning it out a bit, and to have cut a Rabbet into it. Oh well… I’ll remember to do it next time. It’s too late. The clue on Starboard side is already set and it would be a big messy pain in the ass to take it apart and redo it.

Roland’s Rules for Planking

  1. Planks should never be tapered to more than ½ of width of the Plank. If the Plank is 5mm Wide, then the narrowest you can taper it down to is 2.5mm.
  2. Batten goes from where Transom meets the Deadwood and runs along the turn of the bilge to the Bow where the wood naturally wants to fall.
  3. Divide Hull into 2 Bands. The Upper Band and the Lower Band… from the turn of the Bilge to the Keel.
  4. Calculate the required number of Planks from the Sheer Plank to the Batten at the Widest Bulkhead. Then calculate how small to taper it at the smallest Bulkhead at the Bow and the Transom for the Upper Band. You calculate it by dividing the distance of the Bulkhead from the Sheer Plank to the Batten, then divide it by the number of Planks that fit into that space.
  5. Begin Taper from the point of the Widest Bulkhead onwards to the Smallest Bulkhead. For example, if you have a 17 Bulkhead Ship and your widest Bulkheads are 6 thru 11… then begin tapering from 6 to 1 and 11 to Transom. The lower band usually never requires tapering because they’ll end up fanning out and you will need Stealers.
  6. Never bring a Plank to a Point going towards the Bow. This was done because a pointed piece of Lumber is very difficult to secure to the Bow. This is with exception of Bluff Bow Ships, i.e. HMS Victory.
  7. First Plank around the Deck is called the Sheer Plank. This is the most important Plank to get right. Because every other Plank will be in relation to where this one is placed.
  8. The Plank that goes against the Keel is called the Garboard Plank. The first 3 Planks coming up from the Garboard Plank (including Garboard) are not Tapered. Garboard Plank Stock can also be a little wider than the rest of the Planks. Like around 7mm
  9. Leave enough room between Planks in the Deadwood for Stealers that are the same width as the Planks. In the case of 5mm Planks, it would be 5mm.
  10. Deadwood – Make sure and take down the thickness of the Deadwood by around ½. This is because the thickness of the Planks and the Veneer is going to make it too thick and it won’t match the thickness of the Rudder. Once the Planks are on, take that down another ½ before applying Veneer.
  11. Tapered Edge always points down towards Keel.
  12. Use ½ Cup Ammonia for approximately 1 cup of boiling hot water for soaking the Planks for bending.
  13. Work down from the Sheer Plank. Work up from the Keel. Meet at the turn of the Bilge. Tapered Edge always points down.