This Dap Weldwood Contact Cement works pretty good for doing this 2nd Layer Plank work.
With the exception of one thing. I have found that often I would have to use supplemental gluing for the areas that are experiencing Pressure. Primarily on the Bow and Transom.
The Bow, I’ve basically cured it by using my Jig and prebending the Planks before applying the Contact Cement. In other words, I don’t apply the wood and force it to bend around the Bow. The first few times I did this, I had to use SuperGlue and hold it down for a minute or so.
I’m not a big fan of SuperGlue. I’m skeptical whether it will come apart in a future date.
So… I try to use the Titebond II Wood Glue with a Clamp to hold it in place, if u can help it.
Here, I’m clamping some boards that weren’t tight enough on the Transom.
I’ve been trying to figure out a method of making these Planks.
Everytime I build a new model… I go through the same thing. Trying to figure out another way / better way of making these things.
Alas… I think I’m stuck with my one at a time labor intensive method
It’s times like these that I with I had one of those Computer controlled cutters.
It’s not that I mind the labor, mind you. After all, that’s what it’s all about. I’m not trying to mass produce these Model Ships so why am I complaining?
I suppose it’s not complaining that I’m doing, because half the fun is the discovering of other ways of doing things.
Anyway… I’ve settled on a system and I’m finally going to write it down here for future reference… And for anybody else that might want to use it.
I figure out the template that I’m going to use. Basically, around 180mm from the end, I put a Pencil Mark at the 1/2 point in the width on the end. Because that’s how far it has to taper.
Mark at 1/2 way point
Then, I put a Clip on this Mark and use it as a stop when I stick it into my specially made Vise that I made for this work.
Put Clip right on Mark
I then use my Mini-Plane, holding it an angle… around 30° or so, I plane it down to that Mark. Then I also use some Sandpaper to make sure that I reached it.
I hold the Mini-Plane at right around 30° Angle to take off excess wood to Mark
After I take it out of the Vise, I use Sandpaper to get it down to the 2mm Mark.
Sand it down until you get down to Mark
One thing that I want to say as well… Make sure that you Mark off which way to the front and which way points down. Because I’ve found that these things are really easy to get confused… Really easy!!!… You don’t even want to know how many times I’ve mistaken up from down in these things and bent them the wrong way!!!
Make sure and Mark the direction to the Bow and also a Down ArrowPre-Bent Planks waiting while Contact Cement dries
So I’ve been trying to figure out the easiest way to taper the second layer Walnut planks.
I made two different attempts and they both turned out successfully and I put them on.
When I did the 5 mm planks for the first layer I had to taper them all the way down to about 1/2 of the width so that made it 2.5mm…
since these Walnut planks or for mmm planks and that means I will have to tape with these ones down to exactly 1/2 which will equal to 2mm.
In the instructions it says to do the same play up for the planks going forward into the stern but they said something that doesn’t make any sense to put it on block number 35 which there isn’t any blocked number 35 in the instructions!so I am completely confused about what to do about it. So I’m going to go ahead and plank it just like I did the first layer planks.
So I taper it from 4 mm down to 2 mm to the bow and 4 mm to 3 mm for the stern.
And herein lies the problem is that these 1mm thick Lathes are really difficult to taper because they keep bending on you!
So far I tried to use a Plane; I’ve tried using Sandpaper, and I’ve tried using the Dremel and so far I have yet to find a method that isn’t labor-intensive!
The Bow Taper is on the rightClose-up of Bow Taper 4mm to 2mm from ~ 180mm to the end
I have to make around 4 of them to be worth my while to use the Contact Cement
I’m experimenting with adding Ammonia to the Water that I use for bending. I’m giving it about an hour’s worth of soaking to see how it turns out.
I used about 120 ml / approx 1/2 Cup of Ammonia, for this Tube that I use for Soaking.
I boil the water in the Kettle and mix it all together. There is a Screw on the top.
The problem I’m having is that the wood is splintering as I bend it. So hopefully this takes care of the problem… Hmmm 🤔🙄😲
Splintered Wood
I’m going to go ahead and use it… For all things considered with this Model, the 2nd Later is going to be some pretty thick Walnut Planks so I’m not too worried about how the 1st layer looks.
All I’m really concerned about is to do it in a classical fashion. It’s an exercise really.
