This is the last Strake from the Keel that goes all the way forward.
I’m kind of ashamed to say that I had to resort to using the Plank Bender. I suppose it has its uses… Although I just don’t like the idea of breaking the Plank. But… I couldn’t do it any other way.
Well… This is the situation that I was trying to avoid… Making these odd looking Filler Planks. Oh well. It is only the 1st Layer.
Nature of the beast I suppose with Planking. A lot of times you just don’t know where you’ll end up.
It looks like the Starboard side is going to be closed up a bit better than the Port. Although I will still be stuck making these funky odd-shaped Filler Planks. At least the lines look good for the most part.
I ended up going up and over on the Starboard side… I figured the Filler Planks would fit more easily on this side like this.
I decided to just go with 2 Strakes going all the way forward instead of 3. In order to get 3 in there, I would have had to make them too thin. So I’m just using 2 and I’m going to just use filler Planks for the rest.
I feel a bit of a failure because my intention was to have all the Planks reach the Bow and for them to all go to the Stern. I suppose experience is the only cure for this miscalculation… I’ll just know better next time.
But… I must say that all in all, I’m quite happy with what came out, filler and all.
This one was a bit awkward… I ended up holding it with my finger whole watching NCIS for about 30 minutes. I tried Superglue but I ended up making a mess of it so had to wait until the Titebond II set.
I’m having a bit of a problematic area on the bottom. It’s always someplace that is risky that way.
I had to bring the #6 Plank across where the Gap is and make for 2 Wedges I need to make for these Gaps. Oh well… What are you going to do eh?
I keep thinking to myself what I could have done differently to avoid this… But looking at it, I don’t see where I could have done anything else? Hmmm… I’m sure a more experienced model maker could tell me, but right now? I have no idea. 🤔
On the Starboard side, I decided to extend the Plank out and sling a Rubber Band across it instead of holding it with my fingers! LOL!!! 🤭😲🤣
This one was a twisty one… Which is typical for this stage of the game.
I’m doing the entire lower band without pre-bending the Planks or using a Plank Bender.
I was just noticing something going on between Bulkheads numbers 13 – 15. They ended up narrowing this space up to where I’m trying to figure out what to do about it.
I’ll tell you what… This Plank, the 5th one up on the Starboard side was probably the hardest one yet… It when through some contortions because I refuse to break the wood with a Plank Bender. I’m thinking that I’m going to need it though on the next one..
It is true what they say about Garboard planks. That it’s the toughest Plank to be able install. It does go through some rather radical twisting… Around 90° worth from Bow to Stern.
Here I’m gluing the forward part in before I do the rest of the twisting.
One of the main things about Garboard Planks is that you don’t want to let it come up the Bow. This is so you don’t get Plank crowding as you progress up the Bow with the rest of the Planks on the lower band.
The lip of the Plank comes over the Kelson, where the Keel will be glued.
The Keel acts like a Rabbet groove. If it wasn’t like this or had a false Keel, I would have carved some Rabbet grooved along it but it wasn’t necessary with this ship.
Also I’m keeping the overhang on the front of the Garboard Plank… just to have someplace to be able to clamp on to.
Looking at the forward part of it… I’m kind of cursing myself right now for now thinning it out a bit, and to have cut a Rabbet into it. Oh well… I’ll remember to do it next time. It’s too late. The clue on Starboard side is already set and it would be a big messy pain in the ass to take it apart and redo it.
Planks should never be tapered to more than ½ of width of the Plank. If the Plank is 5mm Wide, then the narrowest you can taper it down to is 2.5mm.
Batten goes from where Transom meets the Deadwood and runs along the turn of the bilge to the Bow where the wood naturally wants to fall.
Divide Hull into 2 Bands. The Upper Band and the Lower Band… from the turn of the Bilge to the Keel.
Calculate the required number of Planks from the Sheer Plank to the Batten at the Widest Bulkhead. Then calculate how small to taper it at the smallest Bulkhead at the Bow and the Transom for the Upper Band. You calculate it by dividing the distance of the Bulkhead from the Sheer Plank to the Batten, then divide it by the number of Planks that fit into that space.
Begin Taper from the point of the Widest Bulkhead onwards to the Smallest Bulkhead. For example, if you have a 17 Bulkhead Ship and your widest Bulkheads are 6 thru 11… then begin tapering from 6 to 1 and 11 to Transom. The lower band usually never requires tapering because they’ll end up fanning out and you will need Stealers.
Never bring a Plank to a Point going towards the Bow. This was done because a pointed piece of Lumber is very difficult to secure to the Bow. This is with exception of Bluff Bow Ships, i.e. HMS Victory.
First Plank around the Deck is called the Sheer Plank. This is the most important Plank to get right. Because every other Plank will be in relation to where this one is placed.
The Plank that goes against the Keel is called the Garboard Plank. The first 3 Planks coming up from the Garboard Plank (including Garboard) are not Tapered. Garboard Plank Stock can also be a little wider than the rest of the Planks. Like around 7mm
Leave enough room between Planks in the Deadwood for Stealers that are the same width as the Planks. In the case of 5mm Planks, it would be 5mm.
Deadwood – Make sure and take down the thickness of the Deadwood by around ½. This is because the thickness of the Planks and the Veneer is going to make it too thick and it won’t match the thickness of the Rudder. Once the Planks are on, take that down another ½ before applying Veneer.
Tapered Edge always points down towards Keel.
Use ½ Cup Ammonia for approximately 1 cup of boiling hot water for soaking the Planks for bending.
Work down from the Sheer Plank. Work up from the Keel. Meet at the turn of the Bilge. Tapered Edge always points down.
Here I’m bending 2 #12 Strakes on the Plank Bender so that I can get more of a gradual bend.
Also, I didn’t bother to taper the after party. I’m leaving that until the end to be able to adjust the ticknesses of the final upper band Planks.
On the Strakes… As they come to the back, under the Transom. Well, I found out the hard way to not cut the excess off until the glue sets. The reason being, the excess gives your Clamp something to grab on to.
Well, the bow section of #12 Starboard side went in… But only just. The limit on the pressure was definitely there.
I had to use some Superglue interspersed with the Titebond for this one. They kind of got mixed together and it became a bit gooey.
I’m pretty happy with how all the Strakes ended up at just about where the Batten was. I almost hit it right on the nose! 🤭🤣
As I bend this #11 Strake around, I realize that I’m almost getting to the limit of bendability with these Planks around the Bow bend.
The Stern portion looks like it’s coming along great and that the numbers worked out perfectly at 12 Planks to the Transom.
While I’m at it, I might as well make a mention of bending the Planks across the Jig.
This one is the last #11 Strake. I’ve been slowly making the Strakes as I go to allow me to adjust the thicknesses as I progress. This last #11 Strake is for the Port side and will match the one on the Starboard side that I made on this Jig.
Anyway, I soak the wood in the Wood Soaker for about 1 hour. I use 1/2 Cup / 118ml of Ammonia per 1 Cup / 235ml of Water.
Then when I bend it on the Jig, bend it nice and slow so as not to allow the splinters to come up.
I learned the lesson for slow bending after making a few Planks that raises Splinters as I mentioned before in a previous post.